Statistical distribution of nonlinear random wave height in shallow water

doi:10.1007/s11430-009-0206-9

IOCAS-IR > 海洋环流与波动重点实验室

	Statistical distribution of nonlinear random wave height in shallow water
	Hou YiJun 1; Duan YongLiang1,2 ; Chen GengXin 1,2; Qi Peng1 ; Song GuiTing 1; Si GuangCheng 1,2
	2010-02-01
发表期刊	SCIENCE CHINA-EARTH SCIENCES
卷号	53 期号:2 页码:267-273
文章类型	Article
摘要	Here we present a statistical model of random wave, using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics, as well as a new nonlinear probability distribution function of wave height in shallow water. It is more physically logical to use the wave steepness of shallow water and the factor of shallow water as the parameters in the wave height distribution. The results indicate that the two parameters not only could be parameters of the distribution function of wave height but also could reflect the degree of wave height distribution deviation from the Rayleigh distribution. The new wave height distribution overcomes the problem of Rayleigh distribution that the prediction of big wave is overestimated and the general wave is underestimated. The prediction of small probability wave height value of new distribution is also smaller than that of Rayleigh distribution. The effect of wave steepness in shallow water is similar to that in deep water; but the factor of shallow water lowers the wave height distribution of the general wave with the reduced factor of wave steepness. It also makes the wave height distribution of shallow water more centralized. The results indicate that the new distribution fits the in situ measurements much better than other distributions.
关键词	Wave Height Distribution Nonlinearity The Wave Steepness Of Shallow Water The Factor Of Shallow Water
DOI	10.1007/s11430-009-0206-9
收录类别	SCI
语种	英语
WOS记录号	WOS:000276595800010
引用统计	被引频次：2[WOS] [WOS记录] [WOS相关记录]
文献类型	期刊论文
条目标识符	http://ir.qdio.ac.cn/handle/337002/32669
专题	海洋环流与波动重点实验室海洋环境腐蚀与生物污损重点实验室
作者单位	1.Chinese Acad Sci, Inst Oceanol, Qingdao 266071, Peoples R China 2.Chinese Acad Sci, Grad Univ, Beijing 100049, Peoples R China
第一作者单位	中国科学院海洋研究所
推荐引用方式 GB/T 7714	Hou YiJun,Duan YongLiang,Chen GengXin,et al. Statistical distribution of nonlinear random wave height in shallow water[J]. SCIENCE CHINA-EARTH SCIENCES,2010,53(2):267-273.
APA	Hou YiJun,Duan YongLiang,Chen GengXin,Qi Peng,Song GuiTing,&Si GuangCheng.(2010).Statistical distribution of nonlinear random wave height in shallow water.SCIENCE CHINA-EARTH SCIENCES,53(2),267-273.
MLA	Hou YiJun,et al."Statistical distribution of nonlinear random wave height in shallow water".SCIENCE CHINA-EARTH SCIENCES 53.2(2010):267-273.

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