风浪频谱的成长方式研究

IOCAS-IR > 海洋环流与波动重点实验室

	风浪频谱的成长方式研究
其他题名	THE STUDY ON DEVELOPING MODEL OF THE WIND WAVE SPECTRUM
	王鑫
学位类型	博士
	2007-06-11
学位授予单位	中国科学院海洋研究所
学位授予地点	海洋研究所
关键词	谱参量三参量风浪频谱超射现象能量平衡方程
摘要	目前，风浪频谱因其在理论研究和实际应用中的重要作用，得到了相当广泛的研究。但由于客观现象的复杂性，迄今尚没有自理论上获得风浪频谱的方法。所以现在普遍采取的一种方法是：先假定海浪可由某种现有的谱形来描述，然后用相关方法研究其中的参量，以满足理论研究和工程应用方面的需求。在以往研究中，主要依靠现场观测、数值模拟等手段得出的谱参量与风场要素的经验或半理论半经验关系，此类方法对观测数据的依赖较大，且缺乏普适性。为解决上述问题，本文基于侯一筠、文圣常等提出的三参量风浪频谱，在谱参量的统计研究中，建立受动力学原理支配的控制模型，给出受动力学方程控制的谱参量（谱宽度、谱的零阶矩、谱的峰频率）随风场要素（风区）的成长关系。将本文的结果与先前得到经验关系进行比较，并用实测数据进行检验，结果表明：如（图3、图9和图10）所示，谱参量在风浪成长的初期，随风区迅速变化；随着风浪的不断成长，其随风区的变化趋势也逐渐放缓；直到风浪达到充分成长，谱参量亦不再变化。这一描述，符合风浪发展的客观规律。此外，通过所选的10组实测数据的验证，亦可证明本文提出的结果与实际海浪的符合程度比其它现有关系更好。可见，本文将动力学原理引入风浪频谱的研究，建立的谱参量随风区的变化关系与先前的经验公式相比更加合理，且普适性更强。本文给出了波陡、波龄与谱宽度的简化形式，该形式与先前的结果相比，更加直观的描述了波陡、波龄与谱宽度的关系，并且可以更加简便的应用于相关理论推导。文中从波浪成长的物理本质出发，得出新的受风场要素控制的谱的零阶矩和谱的峰频率之间的关系，阐明了先前的各种经验关系是新关系在取不同风区值时的特例。因此，视零阶矩与峰频率的关系随无因次风区变化更为合理，这是对传统结果的一个有力改进。此外，本文基于已得到的谱参量随风区的变化关系，对四种形式的三参量风浪频谱作了深入的研究，得到其随风区的成长关系。在此基础上，直观地描述了风浪频谱成长过程中的超射现象在初期的发生以及在后期的消失。经过实测数据的验证，证明了三参量谱谱形的合理性，同时也进一步证明了谱参量随风区变化关系的正确性。
其他摘要	At present, wind wave spectrum has been studied extensively, for its important effect on theory study and practicality. But, from now on, the method that obtains the wind wave spectrum by the theory has not been got, because of the complexity of the objectivity. So the method that has been adopted frequently is as follow: first of all, we assume that the wave can be described by the existing spectrum, and then study the parameters to satisfy the requirement of the theory study and the practicality. In the before study, the experiential and semi-experiential relationship between spectrum parameters and wind parameters were obtained by site observation, numerical simulation, and so on. But these methods must depend on site date so closely that it can not be applied widely. In present paper, on the basis of the proposed spectrum with three parameters that obtained by Hou Yin-jun and Wen Sheng-chang, we established the controlling-model that depend on the dynamics formulas, and obtained the growth relationship between spectrum parameters (the spectrum variance , peak frequency , spectrum width ) and wind parameters. Comparing the result in present paper with the before experiential relationship and check up it by using the site date, we can get the result as follow. From Fig.3, Fig9 and Fig10, it can be seen that the spectrum variances grow rapidly with the growth of the fetch at the beginning; going with the growth of the wind wave, the spectrum variances are growing more and more slowly; the spectrum variances stop growing when the wind wave grow sufficiently. It is consonant with objective laws of the development of the wind wave. Moreover, it can be proved that the results in this article are more accordant with the actual wave than before. So, we can say that, the new relationship between spectrum variances and fetch what is got in present paper by using dynamics theory are more reasonable than the foregoing result, and the new one can be applied extensively. The simplified relationship between wave steepness , wave age and spectrum width are obtained in this article. The simplified one describes the relationship of the three variances more directly, and can be use for derivation of theory more conveniently. Setting out from the physical essence, the new relationship between the spectrum variance and the peak frequency what is controlled by the fetch is obtained. And the new relationship clarify that the foregoing results what are experiential are the special cases when the new result get the different numerical value. Therefore, it is reasonable that we believe that the - relationship changes with the varying of dimensionless fetch. This is a sound improvement for traditional results. Furthermore, on the basis of the relationship between spectrum parameters and fetch, the relationship between the four kinds of wind wave spectra with three parameters and fetch are derived. On the basis, the developing model and rule of the wind wave spectra and the overshot can be described more clearly than before. It is proved that the model of wind wave spectra with three parameters is reasonable. At the mean time, it is also proved that the relationship between spectrum parameters and fetch is right.
页数	68
语种	中文
文献类型	学位论文
条目标识符	http://ir.qdio.ac.cn/handle/337002/1059
专题	海洋环流与波动重点实验室
推荐引用方式 GB/T 7714	王鑫. 风浪频谱的成长方式研究[D]. 海洋研究所. 中国科学院海洋研究所,2007.

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